What to see in Villa Ada
Once the private estate of the Savoy royal family and later a summer residence of King Vittorio Emanuele III, Villa Ada is a vast, largely natural par
What to see in Anzio
A working fishing port and seaside town on the coast south of Rome, Anzio was the birthplace of the emperors Nero and Caligula and the site of Nero's
Before you go to Rome: transfers, eSIM & taxi fares
How to get from Fiumicino or Ciampino into central Rome, what the fixed taxi fare really covers, and the airport scams to avoid.
What to see in Villa Borghese
A vast English-style landscape stretching across the Pincian Hill, Villa Borghese is Rome's largest urban park — and home to the Galleria Borghese, th
What to see in Borgo
A wedge of medieval lanes between the Vatican and the Tiber, Borgo grew up to house pilgrims bound for St Peter's. Its spine, the monumental Via della
What to see in Lago di Bracciano
A great circular volcanic lake ringed by three handsome towns, Bracciano is the cleanest large lake near Rome and a favourite escape for swimming, sai
What to see in Caffarella
The Parco della Caffarella is a hidden pastoral valley threading between the Appian Way and the Aurelian Walls — ancient aqueduct arches, Roman tombs,
What to see in Calcata
North of Rome, a tiny medieval village clings to a spur of volcanic tufa above a wooded gorge — so improbably perched it was once condemned as unsafe
What to see in Campitelli
Campitelli holds the very origin of the city: the Capitoline Hill crowned by Michelangelo's piazza, and below it the Roman Forum and Palatine — the po
What to see in Campo Marzio
The Field of Mars sweeps north from the Mausoleum of Augustus to the great open theatre of Piazza del Popolo, climbing east to the Pincio terrace and
What to see in Castelli Romani
In the Alban Hills south-east of Rome, a ring of ancient towns — the Castelli Romani — looks down over two volcanic crater lakes. This is the capital'
What to see in Castro Pretorio
Castro Pretorio takes its name from the Praetorian Guard's vast barracks. Today it is defined by Termini Station, the Aurelian Walls, and the National
What to see in V. Celimontana
Villa Celimontana is a small, shaded park on the Caelian Hill, five minutes from the Colosseum and completely unknown to most tourists. Its 16th-centu
What to see in Celio
The Caelian is the quietest of Rome's hills, a leafy realm of early Christian basilicas just steps from the roaring Colosseum. Beneath its churches li
What to see in Cerveteri
Long before Rome, the Etruscans built a great city here called Caere. Almost nothing of the living city survives — but its vast cemetery, the Necropol
What to see in Colle Oppio
The Oppian Hill rises immediately north-east of the Colosseum, a small but historically loaded park hiding the entrance to Nero's Golden House and the
What to see in Colonna
Named for the towering Column of Marcus Aurelius at its centre, Colonna is the rione of Italian power — Palazzo Chigi and Montecitorio sit here — wrap
What to see in Esquilino
The Esquiline is the largest of Rome's seven hills and its most cosmopolitan quarter. Santa Maria Maggiore is one of the four great papal basilicas, a
What to see in EUR
EUR — the Esposizione Universale di Roma — was conceived for a 1942 world's fair that the war cancelled. Laid out in gleaming travertine, it became a
What to see in Sant'Eustachio
A small, scholarly rione wrapped around the Pantheon's western flank, Sant'Eustachio is home to Italy's Senate in Palazzo Madama, Borromini's spiralli
What to eat in Rome: the four pastas and where they come from
Carbonara, amatriciana, cacio e pepe and gricia — what is actually in them, how to spot the real thing, and what else to order in Rome.
What to see in Fregene
A pinewood-backed strand just north of the Tiber mouth, Fregene is the seaside of choice for Roma Nord — famous since the dolce vita years for its sty
What to see in Garbatella
A beloved 1920s 'garden city' of leafy courtyards and Roman-Baroque cottages, Garbatella feels like a film set — and often is. Its numbered lotti, com
How to get around Rome: metro, taxis, e-bikes & boats
Rome's metro, buses and trams, what a taxi really costs, when an e-scooter beats walking, and the passes worth buying.
What to see in Ludovisi
The most elegant of Rome's modern rioni, Ludovisi was laid out on the gardens of a Borghese villa. Via Veneto — the street of La Dolce Vita — curves u
What to see in Monte Mario
Monte Mario is the tallest hill in Rome at 139 metres, a natural park crowned by the national astronomical observatory. Its summit terrace gives the s
What to see in Monti
Wedged between the Colosseum, the Roman Forum and the Esquiline hill, Monti is Rome's oldest inhabited district — and its most soulfully contemporary,
What to see in Ostia
At the mouth of the Tiber lie two Ostias: the haunting ruins of Ostia Antica, Rome's lost harbour city, and the modern seaside town of Ostia Lido, the
What to see in Ostiense
South of the walls, Ostiense trades emperors for industry: a giant disused gasometer, a power station full of ancient statues, and miles of street art
What to see in Villa Pamphili
The largest public park in Rome, Villa Doria Pamphili spreads across 184 hectares of the Janiculum hill — forests, Italian gardens, a Baroque casino,
What to see in Parione
Built over the stadium of Domitian, Parione's showpiece is Piazza Navona — Bernini and Borromini's Baroque stage set of fountains and a billowing chur
What to see in Pigna
The dense little rione of Pigna packs in more wonders per step than almost anywhere: the Pantheon itself, the Gothic Minerva with Bernini's elephant,
What to see in Ponte
Named for the ancient bridge that carried pilgrims to St Peter's, Ponte is a tangle of Renaissance lanes bending with the Tiber. Bernini's angels line
What to see in Prati
Built in the late 19th century on land that was once meadows, Prati has a pleasingly unhurried pace. Its broad tree-lined streets create exactly what
What to see in Regola
A riverside rione of cardinals and craftsmen, Regola is defined by the bustle of Campo de' Fiori by day and the severe grandeur of Palazzo Farnese by
What to see in Ripa
Spanning the leafy Aventine Hill and the riverside flats below, Ripa holds the Circus Maximus, the orange-scented garden of the Savelli, and the famou
The best rooftop bars in Rome: 13 terraces with a view
The Court, Terrazza Borromini, Les Étoiles, Cielo, Otivm and more — Rome's rooftop bars, the hotels they sit on, and the hour of the evening to b
What to see in Sallustiano
A small, dignified rione built over the pleasure gardens of the Roman historian Sallust, Sallustiano hides one of the supreme works of European art —
What to see in Sant'Angelo
Rome's smallest rione is also its most moving: the historic Jewish Ghetto, layered over the ruins of the Portico d'Ottavia and the Theatre of Marcellu
What to see in San Saba
A serene rione on the 'Small Aventine', San Saba wraps around the colossal brick ruins of the Baths of Caracalla and a jewel-like medieval church, a q
What to see in Santa Severa
Halfway along the coast north of Rome stands one of the most photogenic sights in Lazio: a medieval castle rising straight from a black-sand beach, it
What to see in Sperlonga
Further south down the coast, Sperlonga is a dazzling white-washed village tumbling down a headland between two beaches — one of the prettiest seaside
What to see in Testaccio
Built around a hill made entirely of ancient broken amphorae, Testaccio is the home of true Roman cooking, the city's old slaughterhouse-turned-arts-h
What to see in Tivoli
A day-trip into the hills east of Rome, Tivoli has drawn emperors and cardinals for two thousand years. Here Hadrian built the largest villa of the Ro
What to see in Villa Torlonia
Villa Torlonia was the private residence of Benito Mussolini from 1925 to 1943. Today it is a public park sheltering a cluster of extraordinary 19th-c
What to see in Trastevere
Trastevere — 'across the Tiber' — has maintained its village identity for two millennia. Narrow cobbled lanes unfurl between ivy-draped medieval house
What to see in Trevi
Around its world-famous fountain, the Trevi rione climbs from cramped lanes to the height of the Quirinal Hill, where the President's palace commands
What to see in Vatican City
The Vatican City is the spiritual centre of the Catholic world and the world's smallest sovereign state, set on the right bank of the Tiber. Within it